“If your feet are in the sand, you should have a smile on your face!” No kidding. I love this quote.
The truth is, it was difficult to not feel like a kid again while exploring Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore in northern Michigan a couple of weeks ago. This park was a fabulous place and much, much more than I had expected!
The park is a “National Lakeshore” not a “National Park.” Everything looks like a national park – all the signage, maps, ranger stations, etc. Visitors can even use their National Park passes for their entrance fee. Confused? Me, too.
Regardless of what we label this beautiful park, it consists of 72,000 acres of Lake Michigan shoreline and sand dunes formed two million years ago when glaciers advanced and retreated. What we have now is the world’s largest collection of freshwater dunes, with the tallest standing 400 feet high. There are also 26 lakes, various streams, rolling hills and dense forests filled with birch, maple, beech and pine trees.
Our group (3 adult couples) began our journey into the park by driving along the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. This is a 7.4 mile loop that provides 12 points of interest to stop at along the way, if you so choose. Our first stop was the historic covered bridge for a photo op. This is actually the second covered bridge because the first one was eaten by local porcupines who found the wooden sides to be a tasty treat!
Our next stop along the drive was #3, the Dune Overlook. There was some nice information here on the dune ecology and history of the park. The overlook offered great views of Glen Lake. This stop also serves as a trailhead for a hiking trail that leads over the dunes and down to the Lake Michigan shoreline. Note: There are approximately 50 trails (totaling 100 miles) for hikers and bikers throughout the park, with levels ranging from easy to difficult.
We continue along to our next point of interest in the park, Scenic Drive Stop #9, the Lake Michigan Overlook. This dune stands 450 feet above sea level with a 45 degree incline – you have to see it to believe it! Photos don’t really do this one justice or emphasize the force of gravity. I fully understand why many people call this one the “Dune of Death!”
The shoreline at the base of this tall sand dune is almost vertically straight down from a level area that you enter near the parking area. We could only see a clear beach view, far below us, from a trail to the left side of the dune. People who had made the trek down to the beach were teeny tiny, ant-sized specks from where we stood!
A large sign near the parking area warns that “emergency evacuation” from this sight can cost up to $3000 per person. The message was loud and clear for me! I had read that it takes approximately 15 minutes to walk down the dune, all the way to the bottom, but it can take 1-2 hours to get back up. No thank you! My calves burn just thinking about it.
After doing a head count and feeling relieved that we did not lose any of our group here, we loaded up and continued our journey. We made a quick trip to the Visitor’s Center and were on to our next adventure. Our next scheduled stop was the Dune Climb Trail and a picnic lunch. Sandy shoes and gritty socks were a permanent fixture in our day from this point on.
The Dune Climb was my favorite spot of the day (especially after a delicious picnic lunch of Italian deli sandwiches, smoked fish and cookies!). The actual hiking trail here is almost 4 miles long but we felt a sense of accomplishment just making it up and over the first big sand dune! Whether barefoot or in shoes, walking in this deep, fine sand is quite a workout. Sand dune climbing is not for the weak and weary. I was sucking air, big time, by the time I made it to the top – but I did make it!!
Our final stop in the park was the Empire Bluff Trail. This 1.6 mile “out and back” hiking trail offered fantastic views of the coastline from a high vantage point. The trail was well-packed and led us through a beautiful, shaded forested area before reaching the wooden boardwalk and overlook. The views of Lake Michigan and Sleeping Bear Dunes from this point were spectacular! It gave us a great perspective of where we had been earlier in the day and the gigantic size of the dunes that we had been on.
My friends and family know that I have a huge fear of bears (bear attacks, more precisely). My first interest in this park had me questioning the name. Bears? No, thank you! In fact, there are actually black bears in this area of Michigan but now they mostly live in the forested areas above the dunes. Why the name “Sleeping Bear Dunes?” The name of this park comes from a Native American story that brought tears to my eyes. The Ojibwe legend is as follows:
“Once, long ago, in the land across the great lake, there was a terrible hunger and many people died. A bear and two little cubs were trying to leave that place and come around the lake where there would be more food. They waited for many days on the beach together. But after a while the two little cubs began to whimper with hunger, and so the bear decided to swim across the rest of the lake. They waded into the water, one cub on each side of the bear, and they swam off into the lake a long way. After a while the cubs began to get very tired, and so the bear said, ‘Try hard, the land is not very far.’ And very soon they did come in sight of the land. But gradually the cubs got weaker, and only ten miles away, one cub sank into the water. Soon after the other also drowned. The bear’s heart was broken, but she could do nothing. She waded ashore and lay down, looking out on the water where her cubs had died. Eventually, both of them came to the surface as two little islands, and so the bear still lies there atop the dunes, looking after her children.”
Sniffle. I warned you. Today, the momma bear is seen as one of the big sand dunes and the cubs are seen as North Manitou Island and South Manitou Island, right off the shore. This is not exactly a cheery tale but we did see the story in print as a children’s book.
Regardless of the very sad tale that this park is named for, we had a wonderful, joyful day and made memories that will last a lifetime. Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is one of those places where “seeing is believing” because photos just cannot do it justice. It is well worth a visit!
The first thing to clear up – it is spelled “mack-i-NAC” but it is pronounced “mack-i-NAW.” Don’t make those in the know roll their eyes at you!
This confusion started with the Native Americans who named the island “Great Turtle” (because of the island’s shape), The French wrote and pronounced the native word one way. The British then changed the spelling but not the pronunciation. That got everyone confused! The one thing we can all agree on though, is how special Mackinac Island is, no matter what you call it.
Mackinac Island is home to the majestic Grand Hotel. This place has been on my radar since the movie Somewhere in Time with Jane Seymour, Christopher Reeve and Christopher Plummer. The movie is very dated to watch today, but in 1980 it was pure romance, glamour and mystery. The hotel looks almost exactly the same today as it did in the movie, where 95% of the scenes were filmed. In fact, the hotel and grounds pretty much look similar to how it did when it was opened to the public in 1887.
My husband and I had the opportunity to visit the Grand Hotel with two other couples. One couple was originally from Michigan and had visited there before. They proved to be great tour guides, especially with the actual “getting to” the island. We flew non-stop from Dallas to Traverse City, drove to Mackinaw City (I know! This one actually is spelled with a “w”!) and spent the night there. We got up early the next morning and took the ferry over to the island for our two-day stay at the Grand Hotel.
There are two ferry lines that leave from two separate ports. Each one-way trip will take about 15-20 minutes before arriving on the island. The early morning ferries take a swing under the Mackinac Bridge for great viewing of this huge suspension bridge, which is what we did. The ferry then docks near downtown, and from there you can ride in the Grand Hotel’s horse drawn carriage “taxi” or walk to the hotel. Our luggage was tagged when we bought ferry tickets and was delivered to our rooms in the hotel. Easy peasy!
We chose to take the 10-15 minute walk through the town, up to the hotel (the focal point of the island), and thoroughly enjoyed the sights. The town was full of cute cafes, fudge shops, gift shops, boutiques, museums and bike rentals. No vehicles are allowed on the island. One gets around on foot, by horseback, riding in a carriage or by riding a bicycle. The island only covers 3.8 square miles, so it was extremely difficult to get lost.
There were historic buildings, parks, churches, B & Bs, beautiful flowers, shops, a golf course, and gardens all along our walk. The Grand Hotel soon came into our view and what a sight it was! “Grand” was not a misnomer!
My first impression of the Grand Hotel was just how BIG it really was! Photos don’t do it justice. There are four floors, huge white columns, yellow awnings, red flowers, American flags, and a 660′ long porch. The porch extends the entire length of the building and is claimed to be “the world’s longest porch.” It was evident why this hotel received National Historic Landmark status. Wow!
Red carpeted steps led up into the main doors where we checked in for our overnight stay. The interior was just as expected (designed and built during the Gilded Age!). It was over-the-top, decadent, and colorful. Art work, sculptures, carpets, decorative furniture, lighting, flowers, etc. all seemed to be from another time and period. The signature flower of the Grand Hotel is the red geranium, and those colors seemed to be the color inspiration for the formal parlor, dining rooms and adjoining rooms.
Our room was on the third floor and was quite interesting! I am a “matchy-matchy” kind of person and this room was anything but that! The color scheme was definitely green (all shades!). The wallpaper had green and purple violets. The carpet was bright green with one red step in the doorway. Our chairs were green (think Kermit the Frog) velvet. Our drapes were multi-color floral and the bed skirt was lavender polka dot! The art work had various shades of green – much, much green – but was mostly modern abstract. Think of an old, rich, great aunt’s house in the 1970s or 1980s for your vision. Our friends’ two rooms were just as bad/good?
With that being said, all of our rooms did not lack character and were extremely clean and comfortable. The views on the lakeside, where our room was located, were great. Our big windows looked out over Lake Huron, the fountain, the Esther Williams swimming pool and the beautiful grounds. Sunsets were a sight to behold.
At 6:30 p.m., all guests of the Grand Hotel are required to be in “proper dress.” No shorts, jeans, t-shirts, cropped tops, etc. are allowed on the property after this time. Male dinner guests must wear jackets, suits, ties and dress pants. Female dinner guests must wear dressy pant suits or nice dresses. The hotel is very proud of this tradition and we were reminded of this fact several times. I do admit, we all cleaned up quite nicely!
The formal dinner was served in the Main Dining Room which was all full of glitz, glamour, and mirrors. The staff was formally attired and all servers were quite attentive. The tables were beautifully set with fresh flowers, fine linens, delicate china and polished silverware. A live band played classic music and the entire atmosphere was elegant and timeless. The five-course meal had several options to choose from for each course – appetizers, soups, salads, entrees and desserts. The food was well-prepared and beautifully plated. No one felt rushed or hurried. This meal was meant to be savored and enjoyed, which we did!
Our reservation had not only covered the formal dinner, but provided breakfast as well. Breakfast was also served in the Main Dining Room and guests could order from a menu or enjoy the plentiful buffet, which we chose. The food was delicious! After a leisurely meal, coffee and tea, and planning our activities for the day, we retired to the porch. We sat in the rockers and did what guests do – just relax, enjoy the views and drink it all in.
The Grand Hotel’s main building and grounds are quite large. The previous day, we had explored the Secret Garden (gorgeous flowers), played lawn chess, visited the art gallery, shopped in the boutiques, checked out the pool, and enjoyed happy hour in the Cupola Bar (great views from here).
Our group had also booked a private carriage ride that took the six of us from the steps of the Grand Hotel to sights all over the island. We rode down quiet, forested trails and backroads. We saw dozens of summer mansions and estates, stables and carriage houses, Arch Rock, Fort Mackinac, the Governor’s Mansion, and downtown. Our driver was a fifth-generation local and she gave us real insight into the life of the 500 permanent residents who live on the island year-round. It was very educational and an experience that I will never forget.
My visit to the Grand Hotel exceeded expectations. I am so thankful to have had the opportunity to experience such a “timeless” place, in all its glory, firsthand. It truly was GRAND. That is a simple enough name that no one should have problems pronouncing!
Check this one off my bucket list! A great time was had by all.
I finally got to check another national park off my bucket list this past month – Big Bend National Park!
Driving from the Dallas/Ft. Worth area down to Big Bend National Park is about a ten-hour drive. I have lived in Texas for over 40 years and finally got to see parts of this vast state that I hadn’t experienced before. Pumpjacks, cattle, petroleum facilities, windmills and desert landscapes were prevalent along the highways and byways as we headed southwest.
My husband and I stayed in Terlingua, Texas in a cute little luxury A-frame rental (Stardust Big Bend) that was just a few minutes from the park entrance. It was a prefect location for our “home base” and provided all the amenities that we needed. We especially enjoyed relaxing on the covered deck in the late afternoons and watching the dark skies at night from our back porch.
We began our first day in the park with the required photo-op at the official park sign – a “must do” if you travel in my company! There were only 2 cars ahead of us when we reached the park entrance and we didn’t have to wait any time in line. My husband showed our park pass and kindly thanked the park ranger for his service and dedication to our National Parks. We were promptly waved through.
We headed east on the park roads towards the Panther Junction Visitor Center to get our bearings, check maps and closures, and see the exhibits. From there we drove southeast to the Rio Grande Village, the easternmost part of the park. The drive was quite beautiful as morning clouds gave way to clearing skies, allowing the mountains and meadows to come into clear view.
After reaching Rio Grande Village Visitor Center, we got directions to the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail trailhead and began our first trek from a campground parking lot. The trail began in a cool, marshy area but quickly changed to a sandy, rocky trail leading toward the Rio Grande River.
This was a great first hike to experience the park. We stepped over/around quite a large amount of horse & burro droppings on the trail and soon spotted the culprits on the riverbank a few minutes ahead of us. We walked down to the river’s edge for a quick look before heading up a steep, rocky incline that afforded us great views of the river valley below. We only saw 3 other hikers on this entire trail.
This was the first place we spotted homemade “wares” (pottery, sculptures, fabric pieces, walking sticks, blankets, etc.) for sale. The items were displayed on rocks or boards with handprinted cardboard signs indicating prices and where to leave your money. We kept wondering how, when and by what manner do these people cross the river and set these up? We came across these “little stores” in all areas of the park but never saw any of the actual vendors. My husband read later that items purchased from these spots along the trails can actually be confiscated at the U.S. Border Patrol. Sad, but true.
Back to the hiking – we followed this trail up onto a high lookout point and enjoyed the view below. As we stood on the rocky precipice, we could see all the colors of the Chihuahua Desert. There were green marshy areas and cacti, white sandy river banks, yellow/brown water, blue skies, grey burros, black and white horses, and brown rocky terrain. There were also red ocotillo blooms and my red face from the exertion of the uphill climb! Going back down was much easier, thankfully.
Fun!!
After a picnic lunch back at the visitor center and some much-needed hydration, we were off to hike the Boquillas Canyon Trail located just a few minutes away. There were a few cars in the trailhead parking lot here and we encountered maybe a dozen people on this trail. The trail had quite a few ups and downs before leveling off and following along the river. The path was mostly rock and packed dirt. This ended up being a very pleasant stroll that took us about an hour roundtrip.
At one point, we were quietly walking down the trail in a shady area and came upon three “free-range” cattle napping beside the path. This was certainly not something we turn a corner and see everyday! Luckily, they were friendly, sleepy or both.
The trail eventually led us to the entrance of a high limestone gorge and the end of the hike. It was a very scenic spot with high walls and big boulders and was well-worth the effort to see. We enjoyed the view for a few minutes before turning around and heading back. We had hiked over six miles our first day and it was over all kinds of terrain.
Day one was complete. We were both tired and hungry and more than ready for dinner and a much-needed shower. We both laughed as I literally poured sand out of my hiking shoes and onto the floor back at our rental. You know you have had a great day when your shoes are full of dirt!
Day two began with an early morning drive to the southwestern part of the park. We drove the thirty-mile Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive and headed to Santa Elena Canyon, the most popular spot in Big Bend. The drive to Santa Elena Canyon was very picturesque and we made several stops along the way. The landscape was constantly changing – desert, ancient volcanoes, mountains, canyons, hoodoos, etc. As we got closer to the border, we could see the area where the large rock walls appeared to be separated, forming the canyon. That was going to be our destination.
The Santa Elena Canyon Trail parking lot was fairly full and we did see more people here than all the other places in the entire park combined. The trail began from the parking lot and soon crossed Terlingua Creek. Luckily for us, it was not muddy and was more of a dry creek bed on this day. We did have to climb up a steep bank and follow a dense, winding trail to the actual start of the canyon hike.
This trail was listed as “moderate” and we saw several people turn around on the first leg, which was quite strenuous. The trail began by going up a rocky ledge, full of switchbacks, without any guardrails at the top. I tried to hang on the inside as much as I could and not look down! Once we got over the first half of this hike, the second half was a piece of cake and leveled off along the river bank.
This was a two-mile round-trip trail located between sheer cliffs and towering rock walls with the sleepy Rio Grande River in between. The United States was on one side – Mexico was the on the other. The path led us through huge boulders and rocks until it ended on a sandy bank where the canyon wall met the river. What you see here is the narrowest point in the entire Santa Elena Canyon and it was a spectacular sight. It was very quiet. It was very peaceful. It was very easy to understand why this place was so popular. Gorgeous scenery!
We heard an owl “hooting” up above us while we were standing there on the canyon floor. It called out several times and the sound echoed through the canyon walls as we made our way back to the trailhead. This was one of those days that will forever be etched in my memory. It was such a beautiful, natural place.
After a picnic lunch near the parking lot, with a curious roadrunner on our table, we headed to the Castalon Visitor Center. We made a brief stop there and then drove onward towards the Chisos Basin. This was located more in the central area of the park and is where most of the park’s mountains and forests are located.
The park road gained elevation as it climbed into the Chisos Mountain Basin, a scenic valley surrounded by craggy mountains. This area is the heart of Big Bend and is home to the only mountain range totally contained within a single national park. This area is also home to black bears and (gulp) mountain lions!
There was a campground, ranger station, lodge, restaurant and grocery store here. There was ample parking and we walked the Window View Trail for great views of the park from this high vantage point. This trail had been closed earlier in the week due to “bear activity” so we didn’t hang around too long!
We took a few pics and bought some ice cream to enjoy before our drive back down the mountains into the Chihuahuan Desert and on to Terlingua. We had enjoyed two full days in Big Bend National Park and I really wished we had had one more full day. Three days would have been perfect for a trip here – two days was a little rushed. We never made it to the northern part of the park to Persimmon Gap and I regret not having time to see the fossilized rocks and petroglyphs in certain areas. Sigh.
Overall, we had a great trip. The park was more impressive than I anticipated. The weather turned out to be prefect and there were no crowds anywhere. We felt like we had the park to ourselves. There were no complaints with any part of our trip except for needing more time (and the l-o-n-g drive back home). There were no encounters with rattlesnakes, scorpions, bears or mountain lions – only roadrunners, javelinas, burros, cows, jackrabbits, wild horses and birds.
Official park T-shirt, check. Official park sign photo, check. Official park sticker, check. Hiking shoes held together and didn’t come apart at the soles, check.
All-in-all, this was another very enjoyable national park visit! I highly recommend.
Let me start by saying Meow Wolf is difficult to explain – one just has to experience it. Clear as mud, right?
If I delve too deep into explaining Meow Wolf – The Real Unreal, it gives away the whole story/surprise/mystery. Let me just say that it is a sensory overload of sights, sounds, colors, designs, art, lights, tunnels, closets, rooms, refrigerators, slides, music, creatures, aliens, etc. I hope that cleared it up for you!
Our Colorado kids introduced my husband and me to Meow Wolf in Denver last year and we loved it. Several of our friends have visited the Meow Wolf in Santa Fe and said great things about it. These places are creative, unique and interesting but definitely aren’t everyone’s “cup of tea.”
What the heck does “Meow Wolf” even mean or stand for? My research says the original founding group had each member write two words on separate pieces of paper and threw them facedown in a pile on the table. They blindly chose two of these, put them together, and here we are! My family tried this naming method once with a puppy and we almost ended up with a yorkie named “Carrot,” but that is a story for another day!
Located in the old Bed, Bath & Body location at Grapevine Mills Mall, Meow Wolf is a great adventure for those wanting something different. It may not look like much from the outside, but the inside is where all the magic happens.
You enter the “immersive experience” through heavy doors and step right into a pleasant night scene. A nice, suburban, two-story house stands in front of you. The sky is lit with stars. Lights shine through the curtains in the home – someone is home, or are they? A vegetable garden is on your left. A gardening shed and a garage is on your right. The porch light is on. Let’s head inside!
At first glance, this is a normal, middle-class home. There is a grassy yard, flowers, hanging baskets and landscaping. Every room is an average room with normal furniture, photos, pictures, pillows, rugs, books, a piano, stacks of papers, a fireplace, etc. There are “MISSING” flyers with the photo of a ten-year-old boy, Jared Fuqua, scattered about and on the refrigerator in the kitchen. Hint #1 – what happened to Jared Fuqua?
My husband and I explored the house room by room. This is where the more serious puzzle-solvers will spend the most time. Look around if you choose. Search for clues. Watch computer videos. Study things in Jared’s room. Notice the melting wallpaper and skewed floor tiles. Crawl through the fireplace. Exit via a closet. What is that thing sitting on the toilet? Slide down chutes in the washer or dryer. Step into the refrigerator. Another world awaits!
The next “world” you enter is beautiful, strange, creative and entertaining. Evidently, there are clues all around if you know what you are looking for! There is even a scavenger hunt you can participate in with your cell phone.
We are simple folk and didn’t work too hard at solving any mystery or searching for things “unknown”- we just took it all in! Dozens of local artists worked tirelessly for months creating some of the most colorful, whimsical, technical and beautiful sculptures, walls, scenes, rooms, murals, alcoves and ceilings. You just have to see it to believe it.
Every hallway leads to the unexpected. Doors lead to somewhere or nowhere. Touch certain things and they light up, play musical notes or both. Walk through the stars. Climb stairs to a different dimension. Look up and see what is suspended overhead. Get lost in a maze of rooms. Press that button. Been here before? Find a different “pathway” to another area. Are you still with me??
I hope you now have some kind of idea about what Meow Wolf is! It may be different things to different people. There really is a story to follow, if you so choose to. I was more interested in the visuals – the art, the colors, the creativity. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit there and then came home and read the “spoilers” online in regards to the narrative. I am one of those people that goes to an escape room and lets all the other clever people figure out the clues. I just enjoy the immersive art experience!
To be perfectly honest with you, I would have never figured this one out anyway!
Note:I suggest buying tickets online ahead of time since there are timed entries. You may also try going during non-peak times to avoid crowds (it is much more enjoyable then). Lunch time on a weekday worked out perfectly for us. Tickets cost $40 per person for adults. Ladies, don’t carry a big purse or wear heels. Big bags are cumbersome going through some of the openings/slides/chutes. Justsayin’!
I will be honest here. I had never heard of Acadia National Park until some friends attended a family wedding there a couple of years ago and their photos blew me away. Lighthouses, rocky coasts, hiking trails, granite cliffs, tidepools, evergreen forests and tons of seafood?Sign me up!
As with so many other top-tier parks we have visited throughout the years, Acadia was not necessarily “easy” to get to. Located on the North Atlantic Seaboard in Maine, it is a five-hour drive from Boston or a three-hour drive from Portland, Maine. In other words, direct flights don’t get you very close. My husband and I flew from Dallas to Philadelphia, then Philly to Bangor. Our rental in Southwest Harbor was then a 90-minute drive from the small Bangor airport. Our adult kids from Denver flew non-stop to Boston, spent the night, then drove five-hours up the coast to Acadia National Park the following day. In other words, unless you live in New England, getting to Acadia takes a little bit of planning and time. With that said, it is well worth it!
Here are a few facts that I learned while visiting. Acadia National Park is the oldest designated national park east of the Mississippi River. The park gets almost 4 million visitors per year making it one of the most popular parks in the National Park Service. Acadia National Park is located on an 108 square mile island (Mount Desert Island) and also on the Schoodic Peninsula, which is actually on the mainland.
Bear with me here. I am a visual learner and will be speaking to my peeps. To fully visualize Acadia National Park, picture a set of lop-sided lungs. The smaller, left (west) “lung” is made up of Southwest Harbor and Bass Harbor. This is the quieter side of the park/island and where we stayed. Loved it! Somes Sound splits the west and east “lobes”. The bigger, right (east) “lung” is home to Bar Harbor, Seal Harbor, Northeast Harbor and the more popular parts of the park. Bar Harbor is the largest town in this area and offers most of the dining and lodging options in the park.
My family (husband and 3 adult kids) stayed in a wonderful little rental in Southwest Harbor. It was quiet. It was peaceful. We could see the Milky Way from the front yard and listened to owls and coyotes at night. Deer frequented the yard. We had a 10-minute drive to the Bass Harbor Lighthouse and hiking trails. We had a 30-minute drive to Bar Harbor and the park’s main trails and sights. We had a 45-minute drive to the beginning of Schoodic Peninsula. This location was perfect for our plans and we preferred dining in the tiny town of Southwest Harbor, far away from the cruise ships and crowds in Bar Harbor.
We had four full days to explore the park. It would take weeks to see and do everything within Acadia’s boundaries. Me being me, I had an itinerary planned for each day (insert “of course she did” family eye roll here!). I wanted us to see and do as much as we could (weather permitting). Fortunately, and unfortunately, we arrived the day after Hurricane Lee blew through Maine. It was fortunate because our trip could have easily been canceled due to weather, flooding and power outages. Luckily, that never came to fruition. Unfortunately, we had misty rain and strong ocean breezes the first full day as the storm moved on north into Canada. The weather didn’t stop us and we did what we could that first day – enjoying a taste of “real” Maine weather.
Day One – We began our day at Hulls Cove Visitor Center to grab park maps, check for any closures or storm issues, and buy T-shirts. From there, we began our drive on the Park Loop Road, a 27-mile scenic loop around the park. Most of the must-see attractions are along this loop and I highly recommend exploring by car, bicycle or on the park’s shuttle bus the first day in the park. We stopped at Schooner Head Overlook for a photo op for nice views of the ocean. Sand Beach was our next stop and was definitely a favorite. Sand Beach is a very scenic, narrow stretch of sandy beach surrounded by cliffs and tucked between two headlands. This beach is very popular for good reasons. It was absolutely beautiful! Continuing down Park Loop Road, we stopped at Thunder Hole. This is a “hole” in the granite rock shoreline where ocean waves come crashing in with a thunderous boom! There is also a paved trail, the Ocean Path, where you can stroll along the coastline from Sand Beach to Thunder Hole and on to Otter Cliff if you would rather walk than drive.
At this point in the afternoon, the weather was worsening, so we decided to head into Bar Harbor for a late lunch. After a delicious meal of lobster rolls and blueberry pie, we did a little shopping and visited the Abbe Museum. This museum (a Smithsonian affiliate) shares the history of the indigenous people of the area and was quite interesting and informative. Our afternoon spent in Bar Harbor was most enjoyable, not crowded and a perfect rainy day activity. Little did we know that cruise ships were not docking due to the hurricane. That quickly changed a couple of days later when Bar Harbor was overrun with thousands of tourists! Yikes!!
Day Two – We had purchased a $6 pass for our timed entry to drive up to the summit of Cadillac Mountain, one of the most well-known sights in Acadia. Standing at 1530 feet tall, Cadillac Mountain is the highest point along the North Atlantic Seaboard and is the first place to view sunrise in the U.S. One may choose to do the 7.7 mile challenging hike to the summit or drive the 3.5 mile road like we did. On this particular day after the rain had moved out, the view from the summit was cloudy and foggy with limited visibility. Honestly, it was quite beautiful and made the landscape appear ethereal. We didn’t get the famous panoramic views we had expected. Instead, we strolled the misty trails and enjoyed the sparse crowds, ample parking, and total peace and quiet.
As we drove down from Cadillac Mountain, the weather began to clear at the lower altitude. Our next stop was just a few miles away, the Jordan Pond House. Parking was tough here due to the popularity, but our patience paid off. I had not been able to get dining reservations at the famous Jordan Pond House Restaurant (I tried!) since they book months in advance, but we popped into Jordan Pond’s “carry out” cafe and enjoyed snacks and drinks on an upper deck overlooking the pond. We then headed to the Jordan Pond Path, stopping off to take the iconic photo seen in every Acadia National Park ad – Jordan Pond, rocks in the foreground, North Bubble and South Bubble (twin mountains) in the background. This trail was one of my favorites. The path follows the shoreline of Jordan Pond, has little vertical gain, and is mostly a raised, two-plank boardwalk. Lush forests, ferns, shore birds, colorful mushrooms and twisty tree roots kept our interest along the entire hike. The weather was really nice by the time we completed our hike so we were ready for more adventures!
After a wonderful dockside lunch in Northeast Harbor, we headed back to Southwest Harbor. The kids went off on one of the more difficult hikes in our area and my husband and I drove to the Ship Harbor Trail. This was a lovely forested trail that treks to the rocky coast. The 2-mile trail tested my ability (3 months post-knee replacement) with rock scrambling, tree root scrambling, jumping over rocky crevices, traversing deep mud puddles and avoiding slippery granite boulders. Luckily, I lived to tell the tale! We finished the hike and met up with the young ones at Seawall, which was nearby. We did some rock and shell hunting on the shore and headed back to the rental, What a wonderful day it had been. I had hiked almost 7 miles with my new titanium knee! It was an exhausting day – but well-worth the experience.
Day Three – This day might have been our family’s favorite day, although each and every day in Acadia was pretty dang great. We got up, ate breakfast and drove northeast towards the Schoodic Peninsula. Our first stop was the Tidal Falls Preserve in Hancock, Maine where (prior to the hurricane) tidal pools were full of colorful sea stars, starfish and crabs during low tide. We only found a few lavender-colored mussels and sea snails before watching a poor crab get disassembled on a rock for a seagull’s snack. We were disappointed not to find much else in the tide pools and went on our merry way. We stopped in a little town on the way for lunch and then drove the Schoodic Loop Road. This area of the park was far less crowded than Bar Harbor and had hiking trails, cobblestone beaches, spectacular rocky coasts, meadows full of wildflowers, and dense forests and hills. The name is a Native American word meaning “the end”. When you stand there on high granite cliffs with crashing waves far below and nothing but ocean ahead, you understand the name. It was breathtakingly beautiful and photos don’t do it justice.
After an afternoon spent relaxing on the rocky shoreline and exploring a couple of beaches, we headed back to Southwest Harbor. After a brief stop at our rental for refreshments, we drove to the Bass Harbor Lighthouse to check it out and get a sunset view photo op. We hiked the short trail and descended a set of stairs before scrambling across granite boulders for the best view. This lighthouse was built in 1858 and is actually more visible from sea than from land. We were lucky enough to see a majestic sunset and got some great pics before heading back to our little home away from home.
Day Four – This was our final day before travel. I always save this last day for things that we want to redo or things we didn’t get to do for whatever reason. Our Cadillac Mountain Summit view didn’t turn out we way we planned so I had purchased another entry ticket “just in case.” This particular morning was crisp, clear and sunny. We took in the panoramic views that we had expected, but weren’t afforded, on our first visit. The views of Bar Harbor, the Porcupine Islands, the Cranberry Islands, Eagle Lake and all the hills and valleys were amazing. We easily spotted several cruise ships docked in Bar Harbor far below, so it was no surprise where all the people had come from. The entire summit and parking lots were extremely crowded! There is a lot to be said for rainy, cloudy days.
From Cadillac Mountain, we drove to Otter Cliffs along the Park Loop Road and continued where we left off the first day, due to inclement weather. This area has a very dramatic landscape with rugged, steep cliffs and strong ocean surf. We drove the loop, stopped at a little hidden cobblestone beach, then headed to the “meadow” area of the park. We met our kids (after they had completed another treacherous hike that the old people couldn’t/wouldn’t do!) and began our hike on the Jesup Path and looped back on the Hemlock Path. The meadows, wildflowers and trees along these paths made for quite a scenic hike. It was very peaceful and we only saw one other couple on these trails. Loved it! The Jesup Path was mostly a wide, wooden trail (above ground level) through beautiful trees and marshy areas. Many of the tree leaves were beginning to turn their bright fall colors of red, orange and yellow. We intersected with the Hemlock Path after a while, which was more of a forested trail with large trees, boulders and small waterfalls. This was a leisurely afternoon stroll and the perfect way to wrap up a four-day trip in Acadia.
We packed four full days with activities and still didn’t see/do many of the park highlights and tourist faves. There are 158 miles of trails within the park’s boundaries – making hiking the most popular activity. There were many trails that we just didn’t have the time (or guts) to do! Most of the more adventurous trails that our kids hiked involved climbing up/over iron rungs, metal ladders, granite staircases, boulders, exposed cliffs, and steep rock walls. No thank you!
Acadia National Park has miles of Carriage Roads that dissect the park and make perfect trails for hikers, bikers, equestrians, and people with pets (no cars!). Rented E-bikes seem to the “latest & greatest” vehicle of choice along these paved trails. The Carriage Roads were built in the early 20th century as a way to see the park by horse and carriage, which you can still do today (for a nice price). There are 45 miles of these historic roads with 16 old stone bridges. It is not uncommon for people to see owls, frogs, porcupines, tortoises, foxes, turkeys and deer along these trails.
In conclusion,Acadia was a magical place for me and my family. I will always cherish the memories of a week spent in this wonderful national park where the sea meets land, tide pools meet beaches, lakes meet mountains and ponds meet meadows. One can also have fresh lobster three meals a day! What’s not to love?
A friend recently told me that we would spend all of our time at Zion National Park “looking up” and all of our time at Bryce Canyon “looking down.” That statement couldn’t have been more spot-on!
My husband and I spent two full days exploring Zion and dedicated one full day to seeing Bryce Canyon. Bryce Canyon National Park was spectacular and definitely lived up to all the hype. We could have easily spent more time there if our schedule had allowed.
Bryce Canyon is located in southern Utah and is one of Utah’s Mighty Five National Parks (between Zion and Capitol Reef). It is approximately four hours from both Las Vegas and Salt Lake City. We traveled to Bryce from Zion and it was a scenic 80 mile drive that we easily drove in under two hours.
Bryce Canyon seems to be a little underrated and is always overshadowed by Zion, though I have never heard of anyone visiting Bryce and being underwhelmed. We certainly were not. Both parks have colorful orange and red rocks but that is where the similarities end. Bryce’s geology is very different. Both are fantastic parks in their own way and certainly deserve a visit.
Bryce Canyon was certainly unlike anything that I have ever seen before. The park is filled with red, orange and white towering rock formations known as hoodoos. These spiky limestone “pillars” have been formed by water and wind erosion over millions of years. What we see today seems like something out of a fairytale land or maybe even another planet. Some rock formations appear to be delicate and fragile – others look like strong rock columns that have been stacked by giants. Beautiful, unusual and mesmerizing – all at once. Every view seems different with the sun and shadows constantly changing the colors. When you add in the white sandy hills, the remaining snow drifts and the green tree line in the far distance, the views are truly amazing.
We arrived at the park entrance mid-morning and our first stop was the Bryce Canyon Visitor Center. We learned of the road and trail closures (due to snow/ice), picked up maps, and bought souvenirs. David and I seem to have a habit of always underestimating the weather in certain places we visit, whether it is due to altitude, winds or unpredicted cold fronts. It is now a joke with us to see how much money we spend in each park buying hoodies, jackets, hats, etc. for things that we could have easily packed and brought from home, but didn’t. We now have a wide and varied collection of items with many park logos, including our new knit caps from Bryce Canyon. The wind at that altitude was brutal!!
We left from the Visitor’s Center and decided to drive the Bryce Canyon Scenic Drive to the farthest point and work our way back to the park entrance. The route runs 18 miles (one way) to Rainbow Point. Unfortunately, with all the late and heavy snows, the road had not been snowplowed to that point and we could only go as far as the Natural Bridge Overlook. Our first official views of Bryce Canyon were at Natural Bridge and they did not disappoint. Wow!
One of my favorite stops was at Bryce Point, which runs along the Rim Trail. We parked and walked along the paved section of the trail that overlooked the Bryce Amphitheater. This section is an expansive area along the canyon floor where thousands of hoodoos stand like silent soldiers. There is no other place in the world that has as many hoodoos as Bryce Canyon! There are various viewpoints along the six-mile Rim Trail where you can walk/stand and marvel at all these unusual rock formations far below. Fantastic photo ops!
Sunset Point was another very scenic stop along our drive through the park. This is the point where the Navajo Loop Trail and Queen’s Garden Trail begin and where you can view Thor’s Hammer. This seemed to be the most popular viewing spot in the park and the only place where we saw full parking lots and small crowds. The hoodoos and views from this observation point were certainly the reason why it was so appealing.
The canyon rim along these overlooks sits at an elevation around 9,000 feet. This particular day was clear and sunny with warm temperatures. The elevation and light winds made it feel much cooler than expected. Snow still covered much of the park (especially in shadows) and many trails were closed due to icy conditions. It was easy to see why the high altitude and cool temps make Bryce a prime vacation spot in the heat of the summer months.
Bryce Canyon National Park is relatively small and you can see the highlights in one full day, including the 13 vantage points along the Bryce Canyon Scenic Drive and maybe do a short hike or two. If you are more serious hikers, you may want to spend at least a couple of days in the park.
This visit to Bryce ended up being a perfect day for us and we were so glad that we got to experience the park in all its glory. As a side-trip from Zion, it was an easy drive and well worth the effort. Even though some roads and trails in the park were still closed, we thoroughly enjoyed not fighting for parking and pushing through crowds.No regrets!
If I had to describe Zion National Park to someone, I would just say, Wow!” Words will never do it justice and neither will photographs. You have to be there in person to experience the full, authentic Zion experience.
Zion National Park is one of Utah’s “Mighty Five” National Parks. Located in the southwest corner of Utah, it is an hour from St. George, two-and-a-half hours from Las Vegas and four-and-a-half hours from Salt Lake City. My husband and I flew into Las Vegas and rented a car there for our drive into Springdale, where we booked a hotel very near the park entrance.
Staying in Springdale worked out perfectly for us. We had designated parking (which can be very scarce near the park) and had several restaurants in easy walking distance. The City of Springdale also runs a shuttle service that had a stop right in front of our hotel. The city shuttle bus took us right to the park’s south entrance and brought us back each day. An added “plus” for Springdale – the entire town has some pretty gorgeous views of the red-striated mountains that make Zion so unique. We felt very connected to the beauty of the area while in town. Springdale was a perfect location and had all the amenities that we wanted. It made our stay “easy, peasy!”
A trip to Zion can be a little confusing until you figure out the logistics. First of all, cars are not allowed in Zion National Park. The park has a free shuttle system in place (March thru November) that reduces road congestion and resolves parking issues that we experienced in other parks. The shuttles do not require tickets or reservations. You just hop on and off wherever you choose. The shuttle system made getting around the park super easy and convenient. We never waited more than 5 minutes for a shuttle at any of our stops throughout the park and the drivers were friendly and helpful. I was very impressed and certainly wish more of the National Parks would use this system.
The park shuttles run from the Zion National Park Visitor Center (stop #1) up the canyon road, stopping at several stops, until the last stop (#9) the Temple of Sinawava. The shuttle stops are located at various viewpoints, waterfalls and trailheads including Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, Zion Human History Museum, Canyon Junction, Court of the Patriarchs, Zion Lodge, the Grotto, Weeping Rock, and Big Bend. Maps and signage are plentiful and easily to navigate. While on the park shuttle, pre-recorded tapes inform riders about the park’s geology, plant & animal life, trails and history. The ride from the Visitor Center to the final stop (Temple of Sinawava) takes about 45 minutes (approximately 9 miles). The full route, out and back without getting off, would run about 90 minutes.
We visited the park in mid-April and the crowds were minimal and the weather was perfect! The temperatures were very pleasant but the water levels were extremely high due to snowmelt and spring rains. The famous Narrows hike through the Virgin River was closed due to the dangerous conditions. Fortunately, these same weather conditions made the waterfalls spectacular! Zion National Park will be its busiest from late April to early October, with summer being the most popular time to visit. Long lines, heavy crowds and the extreme heat may not be ideal for you or your family. Plan accordingly.
This was my first visit to Zion National Park and I had always wondered what the big deal was with a park in southern Utah that is surrounded by deserts. It was in the middle of nowhere and was difficult to get to. Could it really be that great? I was skeptical until we were driving in and got about half an hour from Zion (Hurricane, Utah). The scenery changed quickly and the landscape went from boring to beautiful. Maybe there was something to this place after all.
Zion was simply an explosion of shapes, colors and textures. The green grasses in the valley were surrounded by towering white, pink, orange, brown and red sandstone and limestone mountains, cliffs and canyon walls. The fast-running, silty Virgin River carved its way through the valley and ran alongside the highways and byways. We noticed craggy peaks, colorful boulders, fields of wildflowers, brushy cacti and clusters of pine trees. Zion National Park was postcard perfection. I quickly saw the appeal of this place.
David and I entered the park early on our first full day. No lines! We decided to ride the shuttle all the way to the final stop and work our way backwards. We hiked approximately 7 miles the first day and saw many beautiful sights. We hiked paved, sandy, rocky, forested and dirt trails. We saw mule deer, beautiful waterfalls, clear pools, bridges, sandy beaches, ancient trees, mountain ranges and towering cliffs. We ate a leisurely lunch, snacked on ice cream and shopped at The Zion Lodge gift shop. Quite simply, we had the perfect day. We slept like logs that night!
The second day in the park, we drove the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway to Zion’s east entrance. This scenic highway has a tunnel, hairpin switchbacks, elevation changes and great views of Zion. It runs north/northeast and leads to Bryce Canyon or The Grand Canyon . This was a stunning drive with plenty of eye candy. There are many pull-offs, lookouts, parking areas and a few trailheads to stop and explore along the way. This route took us through the mile-long Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel, a modern engineering marvel for its time. We enjoyed walking along a sandy bank of the Virgin River, seeing bighorn sheep, and “checking” out the impressive Checkerboard Mesa.
After a delicious lunch in Springdale, we drove to the Kolob Canyon entrance on Zion National Park’s western border. This section of the park is much less popular than the main part but was just as majestic. If you want to immerse yourself into the more “wilderness” part of the park, this is your place. The towering rock formations, finger canyons, arches and quiet scenic trails of Kolob Canyon are a forty-five minute drive from the more trafficked south entrance. The main park road, the Kolob Canyon Road, is just five short miles but encompasses soaring red canyon walls, stunning high desert vistas and powerful waterfalls. The rangers at Kolob Canyon also gave us directions to two nearby state parks where we saw dinosaur footprints and a slot canyon. It was a fun day!
Zion National Park was established by the U.S. government in 1909. There were indigenous peoples that called this area home for centuries. Stop by the Zion Human History Museum (shuttle stop #2) for a better understanding of the park’s history. Artifacts from Native American tribes that inhabited this area date back to 7000 BC. I find that many of our National Parks have an interesting, albeit a sometimes “dark” history, and this one is no exception.
It is no wonder to me now why Zion National Park is one of the top-rated parks in the United States. It is most deserving of its popularity! Zion turned out to be an easy place to visit. The main canyon is relatively small which means you can see most of the popular sights in just one day. However, you could spend days or weeks in the large backcountry part of the park, if you so choose.
If you want more challenging hikes with epic views or if you are like me and want a more relaxed visit with easier hikes, Zion will most likely leave you starry-eyed and wanting more. There seems to be something here that appeals to everyone – even this old dame with a bum knee!
Southern Savvy 