May | 2023 | Southern Savvy

Utah

A friend recently told me that we would spend all of our time at Zion National Park “looking up” and all of our time at Bryce Canyon “looking down.” That statement couldn’t have been more spot-on!

My husband and I spent two full days exploring Zion and dedicated one full day to seeing Bryce Canyon. Bryce Canyon National Park was spectacular and definitely lived up to all the hype. We could have easily spent more time there if our schedule had allowed.

Bryce Canyon is located in southern Utah and is one of Utah’s Mighty Five National Parks (between Zion and Capitol Reef). It is approximately four hours from both Las Vegas and Salt Lake City. We traveled to Bryce from Zion and it was a scenic 80 mile drive that we easily drove in under two hours.

Bryce Canyon seems to be a little underrated and is always overshadowed by Zion, though I have never heard of anyone visiting Bryce and being underwhelmed. We certainly were not. Both parks have colorful orange and red rocks but that is where the similarities end. Bryce’s geology is very different. Both are fantastic parks in their own way and certainly deserve a visit.

Bryce Canyon was certainly unlike anything that I have ever seen before. The park is filled with red, orange and white towering rock formations known as hoodoos. These spiky limestone “pillars” have been formed by water and wind erosion over millions of years. What we see today seems like something out of a fairytale land or maybe even another planet. Some rock formations appear to be delicate and fragile – others look like strong rock columns that have been stacked by giants. Beautiful, unusual and mesmerizing – all at once. Every view seems different with the sun and shadows constantly changing the colors. When you add in the white sandy hills, the remaining snow drifts and the green tree line in the far distance, the views are truly amazing.

We arrived at the park entrance mid-morning and our first stop was the Bryce Canyon Visitor Center. We learned of the road and trail closures (due to snow/ice), picked up maps, and bought souvenirs. David and I seem to have a habit of always underestimating the weather in certain places we visit, whether it is due to altitude, winds or unpredicted cold fronts. It is now a joke with us to see how much money we spend in each park buying hoodies, jackets, hats, etc. for things that we could have easily packed and brought from home, but didn’t. We now have a wide and varied collection of items with many park logos, including our new knit caps from Bryce Canyon. The wind at that altitude was brutal!!

We left from the Visitor’s Center and decided to drive the Bryce Canyon Scenic Drive to the farthest point and work our way back to the park entrance. The route runs 18 miles (one way) to Rainbow Point. Unfortunately, with all the late and heavy snows, the road had not been snowplowed to that point and we could only go as far as the Natural Bridge Overlook. Our first official views of Bryce Canyon were at Natural Bridge and they did not disappoint. Wow!

One of my favorite stops was at Bryce Point, which runs along the Rim Trail. We parked and walked along the paved section of the trail that overlooked the Bryce Amphitheater. This section is an expansive area along the canyon floor where thousands of hoodoos stand like silent soldiers. There is no other place in the world that has as many hoodoos as Bryce Canyon! There are various viewpoints along the six-mile Rim Trail where you can walk/stand and marvel at all these unusual rock formations far below. Fantastic photo ops!

Sunset Point was another very scenic stop along our drive through the park. This is the point where the Navajo Loop Trail and Queen’s Garden Trail begin and where you can view Thor’s Hammer. This seemed to be the most popular viewing spot in the park and the only place where we saw full parking lots and small crowds. The hoodoos and views from this observation point were certainly the reason why it was so appealing.

The canyon rim along these overlooks sits at an elevation around 9,000 feet. This particular day was clear and sunny with warm temperatures. The elevation and light winds made it feel much cooler than expected. Snow still covered much of the park (especially in shadows) and many trails were closed due to icy conditions. It was easy to see why the high altitude and cool temps make Bryce a prime vacation spot in the heat of the summer months.

Bryce Canyon National Park is relatively small and you can see the highlights in one full day, including the 13 vantage points along the Bryce Canyon Scenic Drive and maybe do a short hike or two. If you are more serious hikers, you may want to spend at least a couple of days in the park.

This visit to Bryce ended up being a perfect day for us and we were so glad that we got to experience the park in all its glory. As a side-trip from Zion, it was an easy drive and well worth the effort. Even though some roads and trails in the park were still closed, we thoroughly enjoyed not fighting for parking and pushing through crowds. No regrets!

See you on the trail!

Utah

If I had to describe Zion National Park to someone, I would just say, Wow!” Words will never do it justice and neither will photographs. You have to be there in person to experience the full, authentic Zion experience.

Zion National Park is one of Utah’s “Mighty Five” National Parks. Located in the southwest corner of Utah, it is an hour from St. George, two-and-a-half hours from Las Vegas and four-and-a-half hours from Salt Lake City. My husband and I flew into Las Vegas and rented a car there for our drive into Springdale, where we booked a hotel very near the park entrance.

Staying in Springdale worked out perfectly for us. We had designated parking (which can be very scarce near the park) and had several restaurants in easy walking distance. The City of Springdale also runs a shuttle service that had a stop right in front of our hotel. The city shuttle bus took us right to the park’s south entrance and brought us back each day. An added “plus” for Springdale – the entire town has some pretty gorgeous views of the red-striated mountains that make Zion so unique. We felt very connected to the beauty of the area while in town. Springdale was a perfect location and had all the amenities that we wanted. It made our stay “easy, peasy!”

A trip to Zion can be a little confusing until you figure out the logistics. First of all, cars are not allowed in Zion National Park. The park has a free shuttle system in place (March thru November) that reduces road congestion and resolves parking issues that we experienced in other parks. The shuttles do not require tickets or reservations. You just hop on and off wherever you choose. The shuttle system made getting around the park super easy and convenient. We never waited more than 5 minutes for a shuttle at any of our stops throughout the park and the drivers were friendly and helpful. I was very impressed and certainly wish more of the National Parks would use this system.

The park shuttles run from the Zion National Park Visitor Center (stop #1) up the canyon road, stopping at several stops, until the last stop (#9) the Temple of Sinawava. The shuttle stops are located at various viewpoints, waterfalls and trailheads including Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, Zion Human History Museum, Canyon Junction, Court of the Patriarchs, Zion Lodge, the Grotto, Weeping Rock, and Big Bend. Maps and signage are plentiful and easily to navigate. While on the park shuttle, pre-recorded tapes inform riders about the park’s geology, plant & animal life, trails and history. The ride from the Visitor Center to the final stop (Temple of Sinawava) takes about 45 minutes (approximately 9 miles). The full route, out and back without getting off, would run about 90 minutes.

We visited the park in mid-April and the crowds were minimal and the weather was perfect! The temperatures were very pleasant but the water levels were extremely high due to snowmelt and spring rains. The famous Narrows hike through the Virgin River was closed due to the dangerous conditions. Fortunately, these same weather conditions made the waterfalls spectacular! Zion National Park will be its busiest from late April to early October, with summer being the most popular time to visit. Long lines, heavy crowds and the extreme heat may not be ideal for you or your family. Plan accordingly.

This was my first visit to Zion National Park and I had always wondered what the big deal was with a park in southern Utah that is surrounded by deserts. It was in the middle of nowhere and was difficult to get to. Could it really be that great? I was skeptical until we were driving in and got about half an hour from Zion (Hurricane, Utah). The scenery changed quickly and the landscape went from boring to beautiful. Maybe there was something to this place after all.

Zion was simply an explosion of shapes, colors and textures. The green grasses in the valley were surrounded by towering white, pink, orange, brown and red sandstone and limestone mountains, cliffs and canyon walls. The fast-running, silty Virgin River carved its way through the valley and ran alongside the highways and byways. We noticed craggy peaks, colorful boulders, fields of wildflowers, brushy cacti and clusters of pine trees. Zion National Park was postcard perfection. I quickly saw the appeal of this place.

David and I entered the park early on our first full day. No lines! We decided to ride the shuttle all the way to the final stop and work our way backwards. We hiked approximately 7 miles the first day and saw many beautiful sights. We hiked paved, sandy, rocky, forested and dirt trails. We saw mule deer, beautiful waterfalls, clear pools, bridges, sandy beaches, ancient trees, mountain ranges and towering cliffs. We ate a leisurely lunch, snacked on ice cream and shopped at The Zion Lodge gift shop. Quite simply, we had the perfect day. We slept like logs that night!

The second day in the park, we drove the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway to Zion’s east entrance. This scenic highway has a tunnel, hairpin switchbacks, elevation changes and great views of Zion. It runs north/northeast and leads to Bryce Canyon or The Grand Canyon . This was a stunning drive with plenty of eye candy. There are many pull-offs, lookouts, parking areas and a few trailheads to stop and explore along the way. This route took us through the mile-long Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel, a modern engineering marvel for its time. We enjoyed walking along a sandy bank of the Virgin River, seeing bighorn sheep, and “checking” out the impressive Checkerboard Mesa.

After a delicious lunch in Springdale, we drove to the Kolob Canyon entrance on Zion National Park’s western border. This section of the park is much less popular than the main part but was just as majestic. If you want to immerse yourself into the more “wilderness” part of the park, this is your place. The towering rock formations, finger canyons, arches and quiet scenic trails of Kolob Canyon are a forty-five minute drive from the more trafficked south entrance. The main park road, the Kolob Canyon Road, is just five short miles but encompasses soaring red canyon walls, stunning high desert vistas and powerful waterfalls. The rangers at Kolob Canyon also gave us directions to two nearby state parks where we saw dinosaur footprints and a slot canyon. It was a fun day!

Zion National Park was established by the U.S. government in 1909. There were indigenous peoples that called this area home for centuries. Stop by the Zion Human History Museum (shuttle stop #2) for a better understanding of the park’s history. Artifacts from Native American tribes that inhabited this area date back to 7000 BC. I find that many of our National Parks have an interesting, albeit a sometimes “dark” history, and this one is no exception.

It is no wonder to me now why Zion National Park is one of the top-rated parks in the United States. It is most deserving of its popularity! Zion turned out to be an easy place to visit. The main canyon is relatively small which means you can see most of the popular sights in just one day. However, you could spend days or weeks in the large backcountry part of the park, if you so choose.

If you want more challenging hikes with epic views or if you are like me and want a more relaxed visit with easier hikes, Zion will most likely leave you starry-eyed and wanting more. There seems to be something here that appeals to everyone – even this old dame with a bum knee!

I’ll see you on the trail.