Tag Archive | Michigan Travel

Sleeping Bear Dunes

Oct3

Michigan

“If your feet are in the sand, you should have a smile on your face!” No kidding. I love this quote.

The truth is, it was difficult to not feel like a kid again while exploring Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore in northern Michigan a couple of weeks ago. This park was a fabulous place and much, much more than I had expected!

The park is a “National Lakeshore” not a “National Park.” Everything looks like a national park – all the signage, maps, ranger stations, etc. Visitors can even use their National Park passes for their entrance fee. Confused? Me, too.

Regardless of what we label this beautiful park, it consists of 72,000 acres of Lake Michigan shoreline and sand dunes formed two million years ago when glaciers advanced and retreated. What we have now is the world’s largest collection of freshwater dunes, with the tallest standing 400 feet high. There are also 26 lakes, various streams, rolling hills and dense forests filled with birch, maple, beech and pine trees.

Our group (3 adult couples) began our journey into the park by driving along the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. This is a 7.4 mile loop that provides 12 points of interest to stop at along the way, if you so choose. Our first stop was the historic covered bridge for a photo op. This is actually the second covered bridge because the first one was eaten by local porcupines who found the wooden sides to be a tasty treat!

Our next stop along the drive was #3, the Dune Overlook. There was some nice information here on the dune ecology and history of the park. The overlook offered great views of Glen Lake. This stop also serves as a trailhead for a hiking trail that leads over the dunes and down to the Lake Michigan shoreline. Note: There are approximately 50 trails (totaling 100 miles) for hikers and bikers throughout the park, with levels ranging from easy to difficult.

We continue along to our next point of interest in the park, Scenic Drive Stop #9, the Lake Michigan Overlook. This dune stands 450 feet above sea level with a 45 degree incline – you have to see it to believe it! Photos don’t really do this one justice or emphasize the force of gravity. I fully understand why many people call this one the “Dune of Death!”

The shoreline at the base of this tall sand dune is almost vertically straight down from a level area that you enter near the parking area. We could only see a clear beach view, far below us, from a trail to the left side of the dune. People who had made the trek down to the beach were teeny tiny, ant-sized specks from where we stood!

A large sign near the parking area warns that “emergency evacuation” from this sight can cost up to $3000 per person. The message was loud and clear for me! I had read that it takes approximately 15 minutes to walk down the dune, all the way to the bottom, but it can take 1-2 hours to get back up. No thank you! My calves burn just thinking about it.

After doing a head count and feeling relieved that we did not lose any of our group here, we loaded up and continued our journey. We made a quick trip to the Visitor’s Center and were on to our next adventure. Our next scheduled stop was the Dune Climb Trail and a picnic lunch. Sandy shoes and gritty socks were a permanent fixture in our day from this point on.

The Dune Climb was my favorite spot of the day (especially after a delicious picnic lunch of Italian deli sandwiches, smoked fish and cookies!). The actual hiking trail here is almost 4 miles long but we felt a sense of accomplishment just making it up and over the first big sand dune! Whether barefoot or in shoes, walking in this deep, fine sand is quite a workout. Sand dune climbing is not for the weak and weary. I was sucking air, big time, by the time I made it to the top – but I did make it!!

Our final stop in the park was the Empire Bluff Trail. This 1.6 mile “out and back” hiking trail offered fantastic views of the coastline from a high vantage point. The trail was well-packed and led us through a beautiful, shaded forested area before reaching the wooden boardwalk and overlook. The views of Lake Michigan and Sleeping Bear Dunes from this point were spectacular! It gave us a great perspective of where we had been earlier in the day and the gigantic size of the dunes that we had been on.

My friends and family know that I have a huge fear of bears (bear attacks, more precisely). My first interest in this park had me questioning the name. Bears? No, thank you! In fact, there are actually black bears in this area of Michigan but now they mostly live in the forested areas above the dunes. Why the name “Sleeping Bear Dunes?” The name of this park comes from a Native American story that brought tears to my eyes. The Ojibwe legend is as follows:

“Once, long ago, in the land across the great lake, there was a terrible hunger and many people died. A bear and two little cubs were trying to leave that place and come around the lake where there would be more food. They waited for many days on the beach together. But after a while the two little cubs began to whimper with hunger, and so the bear decided to swim across the rest of the lake. They waded into the water, one cub on each side of the bear, and they swam off into the lake a long way. After a while the cubs began to get very tired, and so the bear said, ‘Try hard, the land is not very far.’ And very soon they did come in sight of the land. But gradually the cubs got weaker, and only ten miles away, one cub sank into the water. Soon after the other also drowned. The bear’s heart was broken, but she could do nothing. She waded ashore and lay down, looking out on the water where her cubs had died. Eventually, both of them came to the surface as two little islands, and so the bear still lies there atop the dunes, looking after her children.”

Sniffle. I warned you. Today, the momma bear is seen as one of the big sand dunes and the cubs are seen as North Manitou Island and South Manitou Island, right off the shore. This is not exactly a cheery tale but we did see the story in print as a children’s book.

Regardless of the very sad tale that this park is named for, we had a wonderful, joyful day and made memories that will last a lifetime. Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is one of those places where “seeing is believing” because photos just cannot do it justice. It is well worth a visit!

The Grand Hotel

Sep25

Mackinac Island, Michigan

The first thing to clear up – it is spelled “mack-i-NAC” but it is pronounced “mack-i-NAW.” Don’t make those in the know roll their eyes at you!

This confusion started with the Native Americans who named the island “Great Turtle” (because of the island’s shape), The French wrote and pronounced the native word one way. The British then changed the spelling but not the pronunciation. That got everyone confused! The one thing we can all agree on though, is how special Mackinac Island is, no matter what you call it.

Mackinac Island is home to the majestic Grand Hotel. This place has been on my radar since the movie Somewhere in Time with Jane Seymour, Christopher Reeve and Christopher Plummer. The movie is very dated to watch today, but in 1980 it was pure romance, glamour and mystery. The hotel looks almost exactly the same today as it did in the movie, where 95% of the scenes were filmed. In fact, the hotel and grounds pretty much look similar to how it did when it was opened to the public in 1887.

My husband and I had the opportunity to visit the Grand Hotel with two other couples. One couple was originally from Michigan and had visited there before. They proved to be great tour guides, especially with the actual “getting to” the island. We flew non-stop from Dallas to Traverse City, drove to Mackinaw City (I know! This one actually is spelled with a “w”!) and spent the night there. We got up early the next morning and took the ferry over to the island for our two-day stay at the Grand Hotel.

There are two ferry lines that leave from two separate ports. Each one-way trip will take about 15-20 minutes before arriving on the island. The early morning ferries take a swing under the Mackinac Bridge for great viewing of this huge suspension bridge, which is what we did. The ferry then docks near downtown, and from there you can ride in the Grand Hotel’s horse drawn carriage “taxi” or walk to the hotel. Our luggage was tagged when we bought ferry tickets and was delivered to our rooms in the hotel. Easy peasy!

We chose to take the 10-15 minute walk through the town, up to the hotel (the focal point of the island), and thoroughly enjoyed the sights. The town was full of cute cafes, fudge shops, gift shops, boutiques, museums and bike rentals. No vehicles are allowed on the island. One gets around on foot, by horseback, riding in a carriage or by riding a bicycle. The island only covers 3.8 square miles, so it was extremely difficult to get lost.

There were historic buildings, parks, churches, B & Bs, beautiful flowers, shops, a golf course, and gardens all along our walk. The Grand Hotel soon came into our view and what a sight it was! “Grand” was not a misnomer!

My first impression of the Grand Hotel was just how BIG it really was! Photos don’t do it justice. There are four floors, huge white columns, yellow awnings, red flowers, American flags, and a 660′ long porch. The porch extends the entire length of the building and is claimed to be “the world’s longest porch.” It was evident why this hotel received National Historic Landmark status. Wow!

Red carpeted steps led up into the main doors where we checked in for our overnight stay. The interior was just as expected (designed and built during the Gilded Age!). It was over-the-top, decadent, and colorful. Art work, sculptures, carpets, decorative furniture, lighting, flowers, etc. all seemed to be from another time and period. The signature flower of the Grand Hotel is the red geranium, and those colors seemed to be the color inspiration for the formal parlor, dining rooms and adjoining rooms.

Our room was on the third floor and was quite interesting! I am a “matchy-matchy” kind of person and this room was anything but that! The color scheme was definitely green (all shades!). The wallpaper had green and purple violets. The carpet was bright green with one red step in the doorway. Our chairs were green (think Kermit the Frog) velvet. Our drapes were multi-color floral and the bed skirt was lavender polka dot! The art work had various shades of green – much, much green – but was mostly modern abstract. Think of an old, rich, great aunt’s house in the 1970s or 1980s for your vision. Our friends’ two rooms were just as bad/good?

With that being said, all of our rooms did not lack character and were extremely clean and comfortable. The views on the lakeside, where our room was located, were great. Our big windows looked out over Lake Huron, the fountain, the Esther Williams swimming pool and the beautiful grounds. Sunsets were a sight to behold.

At 6:30 p.m., all guests of the Grand Hotel are required to be in “proper dress.” No shorts, jeans, t-shirts, cropped tops, etc. are allowed on the property after this time. Male dinner guests must wear jackets, suits, ties and dress pants. Female dinner guests must wear dressy pant suits or nice dresses. The hotel is very proud of this tradition and we were reminded of this fact several times. I do admit, we all cleaned up quite nicely!

The formal dinner was served in the Main Dining Room which was all full of glitz, glamour, and mirrors. The staff was formally attired and all servers were quite attentive. The tables were beautifully set with fresh flowers, fine linens, delicate china and polished silverware. A live band played classic music and the entire atmosphere was elegant and timeless. The five-course meal had several options to choose from for each course – appetizers, soups, salads, entrees and desserts. The food was well-prepared and beautifully plated. No one felt rushed or hurried. This meal was meant to be savored and enjoyed, which we did!

Our reservation had not only covered the formal dinner, but provided breakfast as well. Breakfast was also served in the Main Dining Room and guests could order from a menu or enjoy the plentiful buffet, which we chose. The food was delicious! After a leisurely meal, coffee and tea, and planning our activities for the day, we retired to the porch. We sat in the rockers and did what guests do – just relax, enjoy the views and drink it all in.

The Grand Hotel’s main building and grounds are quite large. The previous day, we had explored the Secret Garden (gorgeous flowers), played lawn chess, visited the art gallery, shopped in the boutiques, checked out the pool, and enjoyed happy hour in the Cupola Bar (great views from here).

Our group had also booked a private carriage ride that took the six of us from the steps of the Grand Hotel to sights all over the island. We rode down quiet, forested trails and backroads. We saw dozens of summer mansions and estates, stables and carriage houses, Arch Rock, Fort Mackinac, the Governor’s Mansion, and downtown. Our driver was a fifth-generation local and she gave us real insight into the life of the 500 permanent residents who live on the island year-round. It was very educational and an experience that I will never forget.

My visit to the Grand Hotel exceeded expectations. I am so thankful to have had the opportunity to experience such a “timeless” place, in all its glory, firsthand. It truly was GRAND. That is a simple enough name that no one should have problems pronouncing!

Check this one off my bucket list! A great time was had by all.